“I understand the harmony in the food, but I feel it is boring. I feel it’s for the little kids. I trust in mouth-to-mouth conflicts. I like to eat something that is tasty and a wine that is in contradiction with it and both gestures fight to convince me who is the best.”

The next day he had combined Montes’ wine, which he liked best, Outer Limits Sauvignon Blanc, with a steak, a mating that most sommeliers would not support.

This is Chef Francis Mallmann, a man of the senses who passionately serves them in his restaurant, Fuegos de Apalta, in Aptata.