More than a century after its creation, the Tank has become as much of a celebrity as the men who wore it. Figures like Clark Gable, Duke Ellington, Andy Warhol, and Yves Saint Laurent turned the Tank into a status symbol that’s more reserved than, say, a Rolex or Omega. (“I don’t wear a Tank to tell the time,” Warhol once said. “In fact I never wind it. I wear a Tank because it’s the watch to wear.”) Hollywood has continued its love affair with the Tank: Jacob Elordi rocked a diamond-encrusted Tank Must during the late-night circuit, and Timothée Chalamet had a limited-edition Cintrée earlier this year. Rami Malek’s becoming the face of Cartier solidified its contemporary appeal to a range of style-focused men.

But the Cartier Tank’s iconic status makes it feel like a tricky investment. It seems as though everyone has an opinion on this little watch, from what size to wear to which model to save up for. Forums, social media, and friends may give you conflicting opinions on which style is best for your needs. That said, the choiceis yours among the various styles, sizes, and options in the marketplace today.

Photos  by Guy Sie